Proenza Schouler: Open Season

The Proenza Schouler boys have done it again: their Fall 2008 line was fresh, edgy, and beautiful. The double-layered open-faced look surfaced as a consistent theme throughout their line, and the use of different colored hose added colorblocking in a cleverer way than forcing it onto a garment (the Rothko look is getting old). While their furry coats appeared bulky, their dresses effortlessly ranged from uptown to downtown stunners that are conservatively sexy.

Additional Looks:

1. A monochromatic version of the above, perfect for an evening out:


2. A creative suit that can be worn together or separate in either a serious or casual manner:

3. Snow White would certainly approve:

Carolina Herrera: Robin Hood meets Ralph Lauren

I've come to expect lush florals, extreme femininity, and unique detailing from Carolina Herrera. Her Fall 2008 line was much more masculine; perhaps the Robin Hood hats and feathers that topped off each model were too emphatic for me, and the clunkiness of the heavy tweeds, wild plumage, and somber velvets seemed very Ralph Lauren to me. While I do appreciate the rustic equestrian look from time to time, this particular line weighed my spirits down. Even the sporadic appearance of a floral or a bright color seemed to be overwhelmed by the indomitable force of the cold.

Additional Looks:

1. A feather in your cap:

2. A lush, regal look that looks almost costumey to me (perhaps borrowed from the set of The Other Boleyn Girl):

3. The only look that reminds me of the old Carolina:

Ripped Pantyhose?

Alexander Wang (above); Rodarte (below)

There was a time when ripped jeans and ripped t-shirts were trendy; but I can hardly believe my eyes: ripped pantyhose? Unless you want to look like a beaten up and trodden down crone, please do not sport this look. This probably tops my list of horrifying fashion violations that I see regularly: the hair scrunchie, the muffin-top low-rise jeans, Timberlands, white socks with black shoes, overalls, ties (on women), fake bags...the list could go on and on. You don't look like a rock star; you look like you spent a night on a rock under a star.

Fashion Week: Max Azria: Warrior Princess

Reexamining the professional photos from style.com, I realize that I did indeed fall in love with Max Azria's line and not just the glitz of my novice fashion week experience (I'm sure that did contribute to the heart palpitations, though). While Max Azria may not have been channeling Xena, the warrior/princess elements reinforce my belief in the strength of the feminine. The slightly tough studded belts resemble the "urban warrior" image in Christopher Bailey's Spring show at Burberry Prorsum, but Max Azria lightened the touch by limiting the studding to accents. The sheer tulle, the floral and leafy extensions, and the nipped-in silhouettes (reinforced by many of the corsets and external bras that also appeared in the collection) were surprising contrasts and conjured up images of nymphs frolicking in the medieval woods. And if I remember correctly, poor Actaeon was torn to pieces when he saw Artemis bathing naked in the woods: a clear warning to those who may dismiss the warrior princess.

1. A orange and gray number:


2. A fiercer look, one that would look fantastic on a night out with the girls:

3. A hard/soft look that works for day or night:

Fashion Week: Oscar de la Renta: Simple Luxury

Oscar de la Renta is known for his over-the-top luxury that celebrates the sheer hedonism of fine living (you either live in his clothes or you don't). I have never been dissapointed with his collections, and with good reason: instead of focusing on innovation, de la Renta focuses on intricate detailing, exceptional workmanship, and exquisite fabrics. His line ranged from the wearable day looks (as evidenced by this first subtlely sheened gray wonder) to more elaborate evening looks that assert his undeniable handiwork. Simply superb!

1. Another day look:

2. A cocktail number:

3. A gorgeous eveningwear option:

Life is a Fashion Show

Tonight I had the first-chance privilege of attending two Fashion Week shows: Max Azria and Ports 1961 (my darling husband procured two VIP tickets). We were kindly escorted to the Amex Skybox, where we were treated like royalty (complementary hors d'oeuvres, drinks, programs, and lounge seats). Like typical shows, Max Azria started late, but the wait was worth it: cascades of fitted, delicate dresses glorified the runway, and the sight of live models reinforced my belief that models are of an alien species (my husband graciously admitted that they were too thin: and yes, this was a criticism). Ports 1961 started about a half hour later, and during the wait I was also escorted to the bathroom (unglamorous port-a-potties). During the wait I happened to see Fergie walking swiftly by, head bowed and surrounded by her entourage, and then Brittany Murphy cheerfully took some photos with random men. Ports 1961 had a lighthouse theme, and the Celtic music reinforced the Irish influence of the fall line: rich shades of hunter greens, teals, purples, and oranges with tribal touches (fur, feather) and British coverage (capes in particular were of notable interest to me). We ended the night with a plentiful goody bag (Bliss and MAC products, alcohol, magazines, and chocolate) that took at least half an hour to go through. All in all, I must say that the fashion show experience has reinforced this notion: Life is a fashion show. You walk, you show, you prance, and you prove: you are glamorous, and everyone needs to know it.

Fashion Week: Jason Wu: Seasonless Dressing

Jason Wu's Fall 2008 collection continues the floral brightness of the spring lines, but it does so with a gravitas that makes it appropriate for fall. Fall lines generally are darker, with richer jewel tones, but Wu's diverse pallette--ranging from somber blacks to bright florals--reinforced the seasonless dressing that has become a result of Mother Nature's petulant mood swings. The sophisticated silhouettes and gorgeous patterns make this a winning collection.

1. A floral dress in keeping with Spring's English tea garden styles (the purple three-quarter gloves give the dress an edgier look):

2. A darker purple floral dress, which keeps in line with the Asian influence this spring:

3. A one-shouldered black/white dress that creates a sharp, architectural sophistication:

Fashion Week: Rachel Roy: Postmodern Fusion

The Native American and Colonial fusion in Rachel Roy's Fall 2008 collection is inspired, refreshing, and wearable. While I have never been a fan of excessive plumage, Roy's subtle use of it as a necklace or a pocket detail has won me over. The rich fall shades of pumpkins and merlots (Native American) with creams and blacks (Pilgrim) also remind me of the original Thanksgiving dinner in which Indian and Pilgrim came together to celebrate the possibilities of cultural acceptance.

See below some additional stunning looks from her Fall 2008 collection:

1. A wedding dress, Navajo style:

2. A night at the opera:

3. A look for day:

V for Vogue: The Necklaced Sheath

Rachel Roy Beaded Jacquard Sheath Dress, $1,045 at neimanmarcus.com

Michael Kors Pebble Brocade Dress with Tiger's Eye beading, $2,395 at net-a-porter.com

Rachel Roy, Liz Shift Dress

While beading on a dress's neckline is nothing new, the built-in, v-shaped necklace on a sheath is vibrant and certainly in vogue. Designers have long recognized the modern woman's need for simplicity in dressing (hence the appeal of the one-stop dress), and the inclusion of a necklace on the dress eliminates the need for complementary jewelry, elevates the plainness of the shift, and accentuates the sensual fragility of the delicate collarbone. The contrast between the simple and the embellished is what makes this look also versatile for day or night.

Band-Aid + Bondage = Bandage

Herve Leger Aveline Bandage Dress, $1,560 at net-a-porter.com

A-list celebrities like Victoria Beckham have been flaunting the Bandage dress all over Hollywood; unfortunately, this mummy-like saran wrap is unflattering on everyone above a size 0. The tightness of the dress is reminiscent of the '80s (enough said on that decade; see my earlier post about leggings) and of a tawdry dominatrix in black leather. While the silhouette and color mitigate the harshness of those images, the dress nonetheless embalms rather than frees the modern woman. After all, men dressed women in tight clothes as a form of domination and control (think of corsets in Victorian England and teacup-sized shoes in China). While I certainly believe in form-fitting garb, I refuse to apply the band-aid as a kind of bondage.

The Lipstick Jungle

Yves Saint Laurent Tribute Canvas Leopard Pump, $675 at bergdorfgoodman.com

With Candace Bushnell's new series "Lipstick Jungle" airing soon, I thought it appropriate to address the fashion world's unrelenting obsession with all things furry. For most of my conservative fashion years, I have found myself cringing at the sight of women clad head-to-toe in leopard-, zebra-, and (the worst) cow-print/skin, and strutting around town as flamboyantly as a rooster does in his (tiny) kingdom. Unfortunately, size does matter here, for the larger the woman, the more ridiculous the effect; however, I have slowly grown to appreciate the sacrifice of our exotic animals and the (tempered) use of their skins to adorn their human counterparts. This Yves St. Laurent leopard pump tastefully incorporates just a touch of leopard in a similar palette of tan and black (thus using the skin as the basis of the shoe's design). A lighter pattern, as seen in this Rebecca Taylor dress, also dilutes the force of a larger size. While New York may indeed seem like a jungle, a touch of it pays homage to the look without taking the simile too literally.


Rebecca Taylor Cashmere Mini Dress, $355 at net-a-porter.com

The Attack of the Bowling Bag

Gucci Hysteria Python Bag, $3,990 at saks.com

There's a reason this bag is called the "hysteria" bag: I experience an "uncontrollable outburst of emotion or fear" at the very sight of this monstrosity. But the misogynistic undertones (Freud associated this condition with the female genitalia) are reflected in the design of the bag itself: it resembles a monstrous womb with which to suck any unsuspecting male into its vortex (note the beetle-like gold eyes at the top that narrowly look down on its prey). As a proud member of the female sex, I find myself appalled by this bag and its name, which is not only atrocious in design but also horrifying in its message. Do women need to bowl over others in order to assert their identity or sense of style? Or must everything feminine be associated with raw "hysterical" emotion? The oversized craze not only pains the back but burdens the soul. Less is more.

See below another version of this monstrosity by Miu Miu, one of my favorite labels (how tragic. Note the actual size of this bag):

Miu Miu Large Vitello Vintage Tote, $1345 at Neiman Marcus.

Why White Is Right

Robert Rodriguez, Seamed White Sheath for $408, Neiman Marcus

Although New Yorkers are known for their devotion to black, I have increasingly found myself gravitating towards the chic power of white. Pristine, sharp, and mesmerizing, white complements every hue (unlike black, which looks costumey next to orange and yellow and harsh next to pastels) and instantly looks rich and immaculate. Choose fabrics in a substantial weight to avoid the visible underwear problem, or layer sheer fabrics for a breezier look. White accessories are also chicer options for spring (ditch your heavy black handbag in the warmer months). Here is a selection of my favorite white accessories for spring:

Michael Kors, White Python and Gold Medal Clutch, $1395, Neiman Marcus

Nancy Gonzales, White Crocodile Clutch, $1250, Neiman Marcus

Fendi White/Black Textured Patent Leather Pump, $490, Neiman Marcus

Bottega Veneta, White Crocodile Luxanil Handbag

Yves St. Laurent Rive Gauche Tote, $1895

Bottega Veneta, Woven Leather Wedges, $1,100 at Bottega Veneta Stores

Elie Saab: Spring 2008 Couture

I, like many "normal" people, usually dismiss couture shows because I find that the clothes, though fascinating in a fantasy-like way, are generally hyperbolic, unwearable, and exclusive. Elie Saab's Spring 2008 Couture show, however, displayed wearable but extravagant clothes that every little princess dreams of donning at least once in her lifetime. The delicate and elusive balance between the wearable and the elaborate is often missed by designers who generally find themselves gravitating towards the theatrical as a way of asserting their "artiste" status. Saab's relative simplicity is what captures my childlike adoration because I can imagine its sparkling tulle floating on Manhattan streets with a carriage and prince in wild pursuit.

Find below: some additional and simply lovely looks: For Day:

Or night:

Kenneth Jay Lane: Cheap Chic

Ever since I bought my first piece of rich Indian gold, anything less than 18k gold looks utterly cheap to me. While we all cannot afford the real deal (especially in this dismal economy), Kenneth Jay Lane, a regularly affordable jewelry designer, has created an elaborate and breaktaking necklace made of 22k gold plate and a single Swarovski crystal for only $90. The elaborate chain, the stunning emerald, and the short length all make this worthy for a night at the opera. Or I just may pair this beauty with jeans and a crisp white blouse. Available at net-a-porter.com.

Ferragamo: Sting Me

Stingrays, like eels, suffer from unfavorable reviews, despite the fact that pythons and crocodiles (both potentially dangerous creatures) are favored more highly for their skin. Ferragamo is just one of the designers who have been showcasing the beauty of the stingray skin: pebbled but smooth, sturdy and elegant, the stingray's skin is art itself. Ferragamo's entire spring bag line has me electrified from the artwork inherent not only in the skin (notice the white horizontal dots that pepper the surface) but also in the design (as obvious from my earlier posts, I am won over by the origami trend). VBH, Kara Ross, and R &Y Augousti (available at Barneys and Bergdorf's) have also been stung by the stingray, and their elegant designs are indicative of quality over brand name. I'm predicting that this exotic is the next big thing.

Perplexed: The Post-It Problem

Akris, Spring 2008

3.1 Philip Lim, Spring 2008

Carrie Bradshaw had a thing against post-its, but I have a thing against post-its on dresses. Sad to say, two of my favorite designers, Akris and Philip Lim, have decided to experiment with this workplace essential. While I understand the textural appeal from an avant-garde standpoint, I cannot comprehend any modern woman wanting to wear a dress that looks like a maniacal stack of office supplies liable to blow away at the slightest sigh. The appearance of this look in moderation could appease me, but I predict that this brief experiment will tumble like a house of cards.

Greco-Roman: "Classic" Chic

The persistent popularity of the Greco-Roman influence in fashion and in movies comes from the elegance that this look exudes: the toga, the gladiator sandal, the tunic, and the asymmetrical goddess gown all encapsulate easy royal chic. While Balenciaga's gladiator sandal-boot mixes in the dominatrix look for an over-the-top interpretation of the trend, Alberta Ferretti's entire spring line and Philip Lim's easy jersey dresses are winning choices for day or night. Just be sure to avoid a head-to-toe Greco-Roman look that will make you look more costume than goddess.

Lanvin: Hurrahs to the White Bag

The spotty appearance of white bags on the streets of New York indicates that there is some appreciation for the white bag, but I rarely find that it is done well. Usually, the white bags are large, clunky tote shapes, and worn carelessly, without a thought to the overall effect of it on the rest of the outfit. White bags need to be polished and complementary, and a careful combination of a crisp white bag (as in Lanvin's Hurrah Satchel shown above; $1950 at Barneys) with a light-colored outfit looks absolutely stunning. Choose a simple but classy shape (boxy rectangle, retro satchel, or streamlined clutch) in a saturated hue (cream, not off-white, or a white white, not a pale, washed-out white) with a quality skin (leather, exotic; not plastic, vinyl, polyester, or cotton). Wear white (either a splash or a huge portion) in your actual outfit, or choose colors that that would look best with a white rather than a black purse (examples: pale pink, dove gray, orange, yellow). Never wear this bag in the rain or snow, and always put it back in the cloth bag it came with when it is not in use. Hurrahs to the chic and ladylike white bag.