The End of the Logo Bag

Women in the 1990s embraced the logo bag as the visible mark of upper-class wealth; today, this same status symbol has become as commonplace as the $150-$200 Seven jeans that appear on the backsides of teens and women alike. Oddly enough, its wild success was the very cause of its lackluster appeal today; the proliferation of designer copies ("fakes") sold on every corner in Chinatown and on Fifth Avenue, the inability of many women to distinguish the fakes from the real (thus equating all logo bags with fakes), and the heavy push of the "it" bag status have all weakened the appeal. The fashion elite all swear by logoless bags that carry with them the dignity of "quiet luxury" and the personal knowledge that their genuine bags are far pricier than these very same logo bags (the Monogram Canvas Speedy 25 is currently priced at $595, far cheaper than a high-end bag today, which runs at an average $1,500). This very craving for the elite high-end bag has inevitably pushed the prices up, so that a typical Chanel tweed purse is now $2,500, $1,000 more than it was less than two years ago, and even the prized Hermes Birkin bag (roughly $7,000) is seen on nearly every wrist on Madison Avenue. Consider, however, the freedom that comes from this inevitable conclusion: once you abandon the logo, you are free to enjoy quality and personal taste.

The Prep School Allure

As a prep school student, I was subjected to polyester-wool kilts, crisp white blouses, ribbed stockings, and penny loafers (with a shiny new penny in each shoe's fold). Both the wild success of Gossip Girl and this preppy look from Balenciaga's pre-Fall line remind me why this look has transcended the classroom into the fashionista's closet: the clean lines, the unfussy combinations, and the class implications (reinforced on every episode of Gossip Girl) highlight the privileges that are associated with prep schools. The looks are relatively simple to mimic, but they carry with them the trademarks of money: the Chanelesque jacket elevates the cost of the overall cheap jeans-and-white-shirt look, and the uniform suggests a world of connotations (Dead Poets' Society, A Separate Peace, horses, debutante balls). As Americans, we are resistant to the idea of class, but the popularity of the prep school look forces us to examine the inequalities that exist in our schools.

Fashion Rut 101

We've all been there. The Winter Fashion Rut. Jeans, Uggs, Large Sweater. (Dark) Pants, (Black/Brown) Boots, Jacket/Shirt/Sweater. Repeat. In the cold winter months, women love their uniform, and they zealously stick to it, despite how uninspiring or dull their choices are.

In reality, designers themselves usually stick to a uniform. How many times can we see the chevron dress by Missoni? The jeweled layered dress by Vera Wang? Or the wild bohemian flower-child look by Anna Sui? Fashion fatigue hits even the fashionable. Solution: Choose several "uniforms" that flatter your figure, and rotate the combinations:

1. Equestrian/ Minimalist (think Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Jill Sander): A) Jodhpurs/skinny jeans, a white blouse, a fitted jacket, and tall riding boots look sleek; or B) Choose monochromatic colors, unembellished and easy jersey pieces, and simple silhouettes.

2. Delicate and Embellished Feminine (think Alberta Ferretti, Carolina Herrera, Lela Rose): A) A fitted dress with girly details (flowers, pastels, bows) and a cardigan/cropped jacket are a winning combination; OR B) Wear an A-lined skirt with a silk blouse.

3. Modern Architectural (think Narciso Rodriguez, Akris, Zac Posen): A) Wear a shift dress with clean, vertical lines; OR B) Suits with vertical stripes, two tones, geometric shapes (squares, triangles) are technically and visually fresh.

4. Exotic (think Rachel Roy, Proenza Schouler, Tory Burch, Vena Cava): A) Anything safari (khaki menswear) or tribal works; B) Rich Indian embellishments (jewels, beading, vivid hues) highlight basic shapes; C) Loose caftans and tunics work over stovepipe pants; OR D) Choose accessories and clothes with natural detailing (wood, coral, leaves, animal patterns).

5. Preppy/ Athletic (think Tommy Hilfiger, Adidas by Stella McCartney, Lacoste): A) Choose a navy/white/gold combination (nautical); B) Combine crisp shirts with tailored pants; OR C) Wear a polo shirt underneath a crew neck and a miniskirt.

6. Urban Warrior (think Burberry Prorsum, 3.1 Philip Lim, DKNY): A) Choose strong colors like black, white, and gray; B) Details include studs, ruching, leather, and fur; C) Belted jackets, tights, pencil skirts, and stiletto heels look fierce; D) Add a lush statement scarf and opera gloves.

7. Whimsical (think Chloe, Anna Sui, Miu Miu, Moschino): A) Pick polka dots; B) Mix disparate influences and eras; C) Wear a free-flowing and asymmetrical maxi dress with a long cardigan; OR D) Combine sheer layers in a similar palette.

Dear Thumbelina: 60's Party

Dear Thumbelina,

I've been invited to a 60's-themed party, but I don't know what to wear. Please advise.

Sincerely,

Borninthe90s

Dear Borninthe90s,

First consider who your style icons are. Take their best qualities, and adapt them to fit your modern lifestyle.

STYLE ICON #1: JACKIE KENNEDY ONASSIS: Choose a fitted A-line style, wear sleek gloves, and fake a bob. Other options include a boxy jacket with a pencil skirt and a pillbox hat. Dress: Elijah Swing Shift Mini Dress for $192.90 at saks.com.

STYLE ICON #2: TWIGGY: Choose Mod-inspired pieces that are bright. Add large earrings, black tights, and a short wig. Dress: Paul and Joe Zipper Mod Dress for $288 at shopbop.com.

STYLE ICON/DESIGNER: MARY QUANT: Designer of the miniskirt, Quant created clothes that are as wearable today as they were then. Add a fitted black tee and a striped element. Skirt: Robert Rodriguez Golden Bow Skirt for $275 at eluxury.com.

Cuff 'Em: The Jewelry Item to Buy

Cuffs and bangles are the sophisticated way to add a splash of bohemian in a prim and proper spring season.

1. Elizabeth Cole, Set of 4 Bangles for $265 at Saks.com: The rich color of Indian gold can be had for an inexpensive price.

2. Celestina's Jade and Ebony Wood Cuff for $2,990 at vivre.com: Unusual with rich detailing, this cuff is perfect for a night out on the town.

3. Alexis Bittar: Small Deco Hinged Cuff for $165 at saks.com: A shot of color and braille-like gold details add fun to an otherwise conservative outfit.

4. Kara Ross: Moonstone Cabochon and 18k Gold Cuff: Statement-making stones luxuriously show off a woman's wrist.

5. Isharya: Cubist Wood Cuff for $163 at net-a-porter: Let your inner art lover out safely with this architectural beauty.

Salvatore Ferragamo: Love is a Many Splendored Thing

This white Hardwick bag from Salvatore Ferragamo is love at first sight and successfully incorporates the origami and safari trends without appearing too crafty. The muted tones on the calfskin leather create an exotic effect (anaconda or ring lizard comes to mind), the kaleidoscope design is grown-up and polished, and the bag combines my two favorite colors, cream and taupe. If I hadn't recently bought a new taupe anaconda bag, this would be tops on my list of spring must-haves.

Best Spring Trends

These trends not only are winners for spring, but will be back season after season.

1. Origami: Not only are the designs meticulous and beautiful, but they are rich, artistic, and architectural.


2. Safari/Tribal: The Western taste for the exotic never seems to go out of style.



3. Sheer Layers: Wispy, feminine, and ethereal, these sheer layers reinforce our mystique as women.


4. '50s Decade/Belted Silhouettes: The '50s emphasized a woman's shape, mostly with belts, A-line skirts, and fitted tops.

5. Florals: Either English or Japanese, florals this season are lush, exaggerated, and fresh.

When to Save, and When to Spend

In an uncertain economy, women wonder whether the designer price is worth it. Should you spend $200 on a pair of jeans? Over a thousand for a handbag? $300 for a top?

Potential dangers aside (the sale splurge, the designer name, the pushy saleswoman, etc.), consider a) quality; b) fit; c) uniqueness; d) frequency.

1. Quality. By quality, I mean craftsmanship: is the item well-made? Do the pants have silk lining? Are the beads/sequins/buttons sewn on tightly? Is there evidence of an attention to detail that conveys quiet luxury? Items that are lacking in this department should be only bought cheap.

2. Fit. While clothes can be altered, consider it as an extra expense that adds to the original cost of the item. Oddly enough, I tend to alter expensive items that are worth the additional cost; if a basic item needs costly altering, I'll pass on it.

3. Uniqueness. I spend for a stunning design, not for an ordinary piece. Cashmere sweaters can be bought at JCrew or Uniqlo for a reasonable price. I just bought Levis for under $100. A piece that has a unique pattern, texture, shape, etc. is worth its weight in gold.

4. Frequency. Consider how many times you may wear the item. A handbag, for example, is necessary for everyday use and can therefore warrant a higher price tag. However, a special item that transcends trends and that can be worn year after year is worth a higher price.

Overall, I splurge on dresses (a one-piece takes out the guesswork in dressing), accessories (handbags, jewelry), shoes (your entire body's support system), coats, and skirts. I save on sweaters (simple and functional), tops, and pants (Banana Republic has excellent pants in various cuts, colors, and fabrics; they also hem your pants for free if you are a Lux Card Member). Ultimately, a wise shopper will make every penny count.

Tracy Reese: Subtle Sequins

Tinseltown has always gravitated towards the flashy, and the head-to-toe sequin trend has (unfortunately) been going strong for some time now. Unless you're on the red carpet, sequins can appear tawdry, flashy, and/or costumey. For the average woman, sequins should be done sparingly (as an accent on a piece of clothing) or tastefully (in a neutral shade and in a conservative--rather than revealing--shape). This Tracy Reese dress uses sequins and palettes to create texture (it looks like a nubby tweed) rather than shine, and the sheath shape offsets the potential flashiness of the materials. Basic principle: The flashier the materials, the more conservative the design should be. $550 at neimanmarcus.com.

Marc Jacobs: The Treachery of Marc Jacobs

Surrealist art evoked the unconscious mind and embraced the dangerous; despite my tremendous respect and adoration for Magritte, Ernst, Dali, and Miro, surrealism in fashion only horrifies me. Did Marc Jacobs dream this up in rehab? Or did he believe that by imitating geniuses he would somehow become one? Art-inspired clothes can be intriguing if the translation isn't too literal. Otherwise, the result is kitsch without inspiration. Magritte would agree: This is not a shoe.

Worst Spring Trends

Despite the hoopla, these trends do not flatter and will be out next season.

1. Modern Art: Mass-produced reenactments of Mondrian, Rothko, and Pollack are too severe for the body.

2. Head-to-Toe Sequins: Excessive shine is gaudy and blinding.


3. Oversized Clutches: Clutching anything larger than your handbag looks clumsy and bizarre.


4. Worst Decade: '70s: The bohemian, sloppy look doesn't match Spring's neat, feminine vibe.

5. Tiers: Why would anyone want to look like a wedding cake?

6. One-Armed Dresses: Your other arm looks naked in comparison.



7. Loud Graphic Prints: Aggressive clothing is uncouth.

8. Feather-like Appliques: You look like a bird, a rag, or a mess.

Trend to Kick: Leggings

The '80s had exceptional music but horrendous fashion. Unfortunately, the maxim that "everything old is new again" should not have been applied to leggings, a relative of the even worse trend of stirrups (for the younger ones spared from this embarrassing decade, stirrups had uncomfortable straps on your soles that chafed when you walked). Despite the persistent hordes of women who refuse to abandon them, leggings are extremely unflattering: the cut off your feet, thus making you appear shorter; they don't match everything you own, contrary to popular belief; and they ignore your frostbitten toes in cold weather and heat up your legs in warm weather. I also don't understand why some women believe that leggings are a substitute for pants, even with a long tunic. Choose tights, which elongate your legs, or actual pants that do more for your rear than these fashion-challenged sausage covers.

Thumbelina's Guide to Style

Tim Gunn repeats his 10 essential items "that every woman should own" to every fashion-challenged woman that appears on his show, and these items are relevant, basic, and trend-proof; however, I've added some additional items that are just as essential:

1. Feminine White Dress: While fashionistas will swear by the LBD, the feminine white dress is a fresher choice for day or night, and isn't as severe.

2. Cropped Leather Jacket (preferably in a light neutral shade): Your favorite black motorcycle jacket should be traded in for a lighter, cropped, and streamlined one. Fendi's new peachy-camel jacket is neutral and perfect with nearly everything for spring.

3. Designer Bag: While the craze for a designer bag has even worn me out, a carefully chosen quality bag--like a quilted Chanel 2.55 or a Bottega Veneta exotic--will outlast seasons of trends (case in point: the Paddington). Avoid large logos, clumsy shapes, and heavy leather.

4. Belt: Although many women fear exposing their lovehandles, the high-waisted belt has the ability to deceive the eye and accentuate the smallest part of their bodies (most women's hips are wider than their waists). Choose a wider style if you have a larger belly.

5. A Sentimental but Substantial Piece of Jewelry: An engagement ring given to you by

your husband, diamond earrings given to you by your parents, or an antique ring given to you by your grandmother: these pieces represent your connection to others.

6. Day Flats (or low-heeled shoes): Give your feet a break, and save the sneakers for the

gym. There's a reason why Europeans don't wear sneakers on the street. And that's part of the reason they look so chic.

7. Tall Boots: For cold climates, tall boots are a must with dresses, skirts, and even pants (either above or underneath them). Bare legs with a heavy coat look odd and feel frozen.

8. Daily SPF: Daily SPF (I wear Neutrogena's Ultrasheer SPF 70 every day) will save your skin from sun spots, wrinkles, and cancer. Even dark-skinned women need to abide by this one. (A tan is evidence of sun damage.)

9. Special Occasion Dress: A unique, detailed, and stunning number will carry you from event to event: another's wedding, bridal/baby shower, graduation, anniversary. Choose your favorite color or one that complements your skin tone and shading. Pewter, gray, blue, and purple are excellent and easy choices; red, orange, green, and hot pink are too severe to be worn for any special occasion.

10. Cardigan: A simple cardigan can be worn over a dress, stand alone with a skirt or pants, or can take the place of a more formal blazer; it can be worn open or closed, and it can be taken off easily.

Karta: Le(f)t Me Be

The left side has gotten a bad rap for centuries. Academic fashionistas know that "sinister" is from the Latin word meaning "from the left side," religious fashionistas know that "left" is a fashion DON'T in Heaven, and the French fashionistas equate "gauche" with both clumsiness and being left-handed. However, Karta, an Indian-inspired line that is gaining fashion clout, begs to differ. This ruby-hued and left-jeweled blouse dazzles, and the medallion-shaped cluster is a badge of honor rather than a badge of shame. $290 at Neiman Marcus.

Zac Posen: Denim Dream

This denim resort dress by Zac Posen is a shorter, more casual version of that white stunner that Katherine Heigl wore to the Emmys. The pleated straps are decorative while the elastic bra straps rest themselves on bare shoulders (wear a strapless bra with this dress). The real surprise of the dress, however, is its denim fabric, which appears more sleek and sophisticated rather than casual and laid-back. Also available in cream for $850 at Nordstrom.com.

Trovata: Cheap Chic

There are rare occasions when you can find a quality dress for under $100--this silk "Caribbean" Trovata dress has been marked down to $79 from $261. The abstract taupe print on this purple beauty resembles something from Narciso Rodriguez, and despite its "Caribbean" label, this dress can be worn year-round. A cheap thrill at eluxury.com.

Miu Miu: Pleats, Pretty Please

The pleats on this Miu Miu resort dress are sharp and exact; however, the plethora of them create a softness that is accentuated by the loose flaps of mauve fabric on top. For those put off by the top, the bottom alone is available as a skirt, and would be more appropriate for older women who avoid a saccharine look. A hefty $2,950 at net-a-porter.com and at Miu Miu stores nationwide.

Burberry Prorsum: Lap Dance

Lapin--rabbit fur--is a less expensive but chic alternative to mink, and this Burberry Prorsum lapin double-breasted cropped jacket is a lux outerwear addition that will be a faithful companion season after season. Wear it with a glammed-out evening dress or with skinny jeans and tall boots; either way, you will be dancing down the street. $2850 at Net-a-porter.com.

3.1 Philip Lim: Coiled, Curt, and Cheap

Here is a cheaper version of that amazing coiled aqua resort number that I featured before: the top and back alone are decorated with those tight whorls of silk, and the rest of the jersey dress (or tunic top--fashion is a matter of perception) is free flowing for women who prefer more freedom in their middle regions; however, add a belt and the dress instantly has a more defined shape. Also available in anthracite at net-a-porter.com for a much more reasonable $430.

New Year's Fashion Resolutions

Happy New Year! Consider making--and keeping--these fashion resolutions for the fabulous new year:

1. Quality Over Quantity: Edit your purchases. Most of us buy into the mass buying frenzy during this time of year (granted, there are great sales to be had), but choosing carefully allows you to embrace the essence of your style. Tim Gunn advises women to choose only "soul stirring" items that make them feel glamorous. Next time you see yourself considering that 70% off mediocre piece that fits oddly, remember this maxim and walk away.

2. Dress Your Best. Avoid frumpy, old, wrinkled, torn, or ill-fitting garbs that make you look careless and feel underconfident. Immediately purge them from your wardrobe or consider alterations that can drastically salvage them. If you haven't worn an item in over 6 months, consider donating that item to good will; chances are that that item doesn't make you feel amazing.

3. Invest in Accessories. A timeless handbag, sleek shoes, classy belts, and unique jewelry are expensive but necessary additions to any wardrobe. Instead of buying multiple copies of poor accessories, save up for one single item that you can use over and over.

4. Raid a Parent's/Grandparent's/Friend's Closet. A fourth of my clothes are hand-me-downs from my mother, who stylishly and wisely invested in tailored clothes during her youth. Now these clothes are getting a second life. A friend of mine inherited a Fendi baguette from a friend who no longer used it; now the baguette is back in style.

5. Expand Your Mind. Fashion starts with an educated mind and a strong sense of self. This year, consider exploring a creative side that has long been overshadowed by work and responsibilities. Enroll in an art class, start writing, read poetry, or pursue a dream. The fashionable woman knows that fashion is just one expression of a life immersed in art and fine living.