Thursday, April 17, 2008

Mergers and Acquisitions

Shopping is much like a business deal, in which some items merge with other garments in your wardrobe, and others simply are acquired. And while shopping can be a therapeutic experience, it can also be done with deliberate cunning--something my husband does with exceptional skill. He compares prices, he mulls over the pros and cons of such an acquisition, he mentally takes note of the risks versus rewards. For big-ticket items, women should be mindful of the product's value in their wardrobes: does the acquisition increase or decrease the worth of the closet? Can the item merge with others of equal, greater, or lesser value, all with the ease of a skilled socialite?

Take, for example, my Miu Miu Spring brocade jacket. I can wear it as a dress, a jacket over jeans, or as a coat over a dress. I can wear it as a light coat in the spring or as a jacket under my shearling coat in the winter. The color complexity--it is an amalgam of black, coral, and off white--allows me the freedom to wear it with any solid color in a corresponding hue. I could wear it to a wedding or to work.

Although the jacket was expensive, I consider it a worthy acquisition that will see repeated use season after season. Before you buy anything costly, consider these questions:

1. Can you dress it up and down?
2. Can you wear it with at least three other items in your current wardrobe?
3. Does it look seasonless? (Obviously, this won't apply to a fur coat. But if you can say yes to this, it's a bonus.)
4. Is it trend-proof? Can you see yourself wearing it as you get older?
5. Will you cherish it?

If you can answer yes to at least three of the above five questions, chances are that that piece is worth purchasing. Otherwise, as I've come to learn, it will only clutter your closet and eventually be discarded as a financially-draining deal gone wrong.

Cheap Chic: Anthropologie Raffia Belt

Anthropologie Grass Mountain Belt, $58 at www.anthropologie.com

Raffia is all the rage right now, as it screams casual, earthy chic. This particular Anthropologie belt looks perfect with anything Donna Karan or Oscar de la Renta--and equally perfect with a casual dress or jeans. The wide style hides flaws, and the unexpected combination of gray and camel looks refreshingly modern. In this day and age, when a stellar belt will set you back quite a pretty penny (think Fendi or Burberry), this belt is a true value for both style and price.

Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Ruching Never Looked Lovelier

From Left: Burberry Prorsum Ruched Georgette Dress, $3,395 and Silk Tulle Pleat Dress, $2,895 at net-a-porter.com

For years, I despised ruching--it always looked cheap to me. But in Christopher Bailey's masterful hands, it looks nothing short of elegant and exquisite. Both of these Burberry Prorsum dresses leave me breathless: the soft quality of the ruching creates a draping akin to those on Greek goddesses, and the fitted shapes are modern yet timeless. One could wear these dresses for day, night, and everything in between: wedding, work, tea, lunch, business event...If I weren't so concerned about the dismal state of the economy I'd be tempted to purchase one of these lovelies. Alas, they'll go unworn on this fashionista, but at least they won't be unsung.

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

How Young Is Too Young For Fashion?

3.1 Philip Lim Daffodil Shift Dress, $325 at www.neimanmarcus.com

"Your children will be the best dressed kids on the block," a teenager once told me. I frowned, and jokingly said, "They'll be dressed in K-Mart clothes till they're fifteen." Even though I was only half-kidding, I have always felt very strongly about separating childhood from fashion. This is not to say that I don't gush like any normal woman when I see a cutely dressed baby (my friend told me about a baby boy dressed in a vest with corduroys and I melted). Nor does this mean that I wouldn't dress my future nonexistent children in well-coordinated outfits. It simply means that I question the effect of pushing fashion on the very young, who have not yet formed their own internal sense of self. For me, fashion is tied in with my identity and growth as a mature human being, and it's so much about choice, responsibility, and self-expression; but I am also aware of the potential dangers of materialism and selfishness in those too immature to handle it. I wouldn't want my children to base their self-worth on the label they're wearing, nor would I want them to base the value of their clothing on the price paid for them. While I do not judge those who do choose designer duds for their children--that is a choice, after all--I do ponder my future decisions as a mother, and ultimately, I will promote self-expression and responsibility rather than labels and status--even if it means that I disagree with their fashion aesthetic.

Embossed Exotics

Ann Taylor LOFT Python-Embossed Metal Frame Clutch, $39 at www.anntaylorloft.com

Naturally, as a result of the exotic craze, I've been accosted by fake python and crocodile bags everywhere I turn. While I certainly understand the appeal--the cost is significantly lower--I find myself cringing whenever I see extremely poor renditions that resemble tattered netting rather than sleek snakeskin. It's akin to seeing fake designer handbags that don't even use accurate logos (the ersatz Louis Vuittons are notoriously bad); who is this person fooling but herself? If you cannot afford a genuine exotic, at least choose genuine leather (or fabric bags if you are vegan). It's far classier to choose that than appearing like the little fashionista that could.

Monday, April 14, 2008

Back to Back

3.1 Philip Lim Ruffled Open-Back Dress, $675 at www.neimanmarcus.com

Unfortunately, the backless trend is one that I won't be indulging in, despite my love for this sweet Philip Lim number (the bottom ruffles are as magnificent as those on a wedding cake). While some call into question my conservative side (this dress screams twenty-something), I simply admit that only those with stunning backs can wear something like this. Then there's the question of the relentless bra situation: does one go without, or purchase a stick-on type? While I don't shy away from the extravagant or the highly ornate, I do shy away from the complicated or the overtly revealing. How about you: would YOU wear this? If so, how?

The Soft Feminine Jacket

From Left: L.A.M.B. Peek-a-boo Blazer, $285 at http://www.eluxury.com/; Wang Wei Silver Screen Jacket, on sale for $465 at www.blaec.com

There's the hard, masculine jacket, which takes the form of a tuxedo jacket (dressed-up), a motorcycle jacket (dressed-down), or a suit jacket (work/day), but then there's the soft, feminine jacket, which takes the form of a belted jacket, a billowy, puff sleeved jacket, or a creative jacket, which incorporates an nontraditional detail (like the side buttons and extended collar on the L.A.M.B. jacket, seen above). In this unpredictable weather (it was 39 degrees this morning, but on Wednesday it's supposed to top 70 degrees), a chic feminine jacket is just the thing to provide warmth and fashion. The beauty of this look is that it can be paired with just about anything: jeans, a skirt, or a dress.

Friday, April 11, 2008

Skull and Bones

From Left: Vivienne Westwood Swarovski Crystal Bone Bracelet, $345; Alexander McQueen Silk Chiffon Skull Scarf, $205; both at net-a-porter.com

Apparently, the skull and bones motifs are like stubborn stains that won't come out, no matter what harsh cleaning agent you apply. While I understand that many still link both icons to rock-and-roll aesthetics, they are hardly cool. The constant reminder of death (and the stereotypical short lives of the rockers that sport them) is discomforting and too goth for my taste. You might as well wear a long black hooded robe and sport a scythe to match. There are enough reminders on TV of our short lives; let us leave fashion out of it.

Thursday, April 10, 2008

ROY G BIV Accessories

Let us celebrate the fashionable spectrum of color that has--yet again--burst onto our radar. For those who choose to wear only a splash of color, here are some of my top choices:

RED: Nancy Gonzales Shiny Crocodile Tote, $4,400 at bergdorfgoodman.com: A surprising complement to neutrals and perfect for everyday use.


ORANGE: Fendi B Belt, $345 at net-a-porter.com: Surprisingly versatile, this orange belt will transform a basic khaki dress into something delightful.
YELLOW: Leopoldo Giordano Open Vamp Pump, $490 at shopbop.com: These sunkissed beauties are less saturated, so they work as a neutral.

GREEN: Chie Mihara Canal T-Strap Open Toe Pump, $354 at shopbop.com: The muted color of this green makes this perfect for everyday; plus, the unusual contours make these pumps unusual.

BLUE: Chloe Patent Leather Sandals, $595 at net-a-porter.com: The low heels are comfortable, and the bright color works with jeans or a skirt.
INDIGO: Christian Louboutin Pleated Platform Pump, $875 at bergdorfgoodman.com: The delicate fabric on these dresses up anything.


VIOLET: Rupert Sanderson Hesler Leather Pumps, $575 at net-a-porter.com: The low heel, the zingy color, and the peep toe design all make these winners, for day or night.


The Good, The Bad, and The Ugg-ly

On my way to work this morning, I was astounded by the number of women wearing Uggs. The forecaster joyfully predicted a sunny 70 degrees here in the Big Apple, and yet these women were wearing Uggs. Now, despite my prejudice of them--I think they're ugg-ly--I do own a pair of Uggs for the express purpose of wearing them in freezing cold and slushy winter weather. (Hey, a fashionista's gotta be practical, too.) But in 70 degree weather? If comfort is what a woman wants, she has a multitude of options: flats, sneakers, wedges...But choosing a clunky snowman boot is beyond my comprehension. Ladies, please: the trend has long been passe. It's time to move on to a fresher shoe in the warmer months.

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

I Know Why The Caged Bird Sings



Clockwise From Top Left: Robert Rodriguez Ruffled Dress, $495 at neimanmarcus.com; Alexander McQueen Wing Embroidered Dress, $8,435 at net-a-porter.com; Fendi Zay Metallic Platforms, $705 at net-a-porter.com; and Juicy Couture No Juicy Angel Cuff, $98 at saks.com

Wings are associated with flight and the divine, and for good reason: not only do they propel the owner high into the heavens, but they also suggest a power of perception given to those who can see "with a bird's eye view." These particular pieces are safer than the wings given to Dedalus and look far more stylish (although the McQueen dress may melt your savings account quite quickly). While this look may be best for those with a) equally daring personalities to match and b) slight frames, others may find more comfort in the costume piece and the caged sandals, which are a more playfully subversive statement about our tendency to cage that which longs to soar.

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

Fashion in 3D

I apologize for being MIA yesterday, but my computer was throwing a temper tantrum and wouldn't work.

Even though I dismissed these Miu Miu python boots when I first saw them on the runway--I thought they were tacky and ugly--I couldn't help marvel at the intricate nature of these statement boots in person. The beautiful craftsmanship, the perfect skin, and the complex design left me somewhat breathless. And while these boots are not made for this fashionista's walking, they can be admired from afar with the appreciation of a neophyte in a museum. This just goes to show that fashion must be seen up close; flat images rarely do a work of art justice. Conversely, I marvel at some items online, but when I see them up close, I am gravely disappointed (as in the case of a certain MaxAzria resort dress I wanted). If you are one of the bold fashionistas who can pull these boots off with aplomb, they're an equally stunning $4,300 at net-a-porter.com.

Sunday, April 6, 2008

Best Fall Accessories

BEST SHOES/BOOTIES: The extreme shoe trend of Spring continues well into Fall; these stunning shoe booties blow boring out of the water.

FROM LEFT: Giorgio Armani Watersnake Sandal, Manolo Blahnik Embroidered Satin Ankle Boot, Prada Leather Ankle Boot



BEST TALL BOOTS: The horizontal lines add a strong visual complement to the lean, vertical lines of these fabulous boots.
FROM LEFT: Alexandra Neel Platform Nikita Boot, Pierre Hardy Leather Cutout Boot, Miu Miu Leather Lace-up Boot



BEST HANDBAGS: Structured and exotic, these handbags play up simple shapes with unique details and gorgeous skins.

FROM LEFT: Balenciaga Crocodile Cherche-Midi handbag, Fendi Crocodile F3 handbag, Oscar de la Renta Shagreen Goya bag

Schlub Dressing

There's that "Sex and the City" episode when Samantha furiously spots a schlub in a tacky track suit sporting the red Hermes Birkin that she so covets. Recently, I too saw a similar schlub at Miu Miu with the Prada Fairy bag, and my friend exclaimed outrageously, "Now, what is that?!" I shrugged, and simply said, "Women who dress like that think they can get away with it because they have the newest 'it' bag. They think it excuses them." And yet my friend persisted: "Women like that don't dress for style; they dress for status."

And I realized that she was right: there are legions of women who mindlessly purchase 'it' items because fashion editors have praised them, not because they truly see the artistry or aesthetic value in that item. The sloppiness of thinking is what translates into the sloppiness of dressing. And while I cannot be excused from the concept of status dressing (after all, I do purchase designer things), I do not simply buy things for status with the mindlessness of a drone. For status without style is like an artist's signature without the art.

Friday, April 4, 2008

Limited Edition = Maximum Appeal


As I was innocently walking around in Soho the other day with a dear friend of mine, I happened to come across these "limited edition" Prada fairy platform sandals and innocently tried them on for fun. That sweet but damned salesgirl then told me, while I was admiring them on my feet, that they were a limited edition pair and that this particular shoe was the last one in my size. Since I had already lamented the exorbitant cost of the dress version, I knew that it would be the shoes or the fairies would have cruelly bid adieu. Even though I have correctly pointed out that the fairy dresses were poorly constructed, I have never been disappointed with Prada shoes, which dominate my shoe closet. I could not ignore that Mephistophelian voice that kept whispering insidiously, "limited edition...limited edition." My girlfriend was also taken in by this voice, and she too bought a stunning handbag that was--you guessed it--limited edition. "In a couple of years, these shoes will be vintage," the salesgirl proclaimed. As any serious collector of fashion, I shamefully gave into my base impulses and bought the damn shoes. But I must say...they're fabulous.

Thursday, April 3, 2008

Clothing Longevity How-Tos

As a society, we are obsessed with "maintaining" our youthful looks: we go to the gym (at least occasionally), we eat health-conscious foods (sometimes), we get Botox (those of us who are brave enough). But what about our clothes? A recent inquiry has confirmed my belief that we treat our clothes shabbily and shamefully. Many people believe that I am a rabid shopper, but the truth is I've carefully maintained my clothes over several years, and I still wear the same clothes my mother used to wear back in the 60s (people usually assume they're recent purchases). How, pray tell, can YOU maintain your frocks season after season?

1. This may be shocking, but it's the MOST IMPORTANT rule of all: Don't over-dry clean anything. Dry cleaning ruins clothing, but unfortunately it's a necessary evil. Only dry clean clothes that are actually stained. Most people mistakenly believe that it's necessary to clean something after one use. You should limit the dry cleaning to a couple times a season, and you'll be amazed how long that garment will actually last.

2. Wear "HOME CLOTHES" at home. I have a drawer full of tees, thermals, sweatpants, and a prized oversized terrycloth sweater that I throw on when I'm at home (I think I bought this comfortable but hideous sweater in high school). My mother taught me that when you get home, you should immediately change into these so-called "home clothes." Wearing your outside clothes will only wear them out faster.

3. In addition to changing your clothes upon immediate entrance into your home, carefully hang up your worn clothes in your closet, which prevents wrinkles and other additional stains. (Many people dry clean items that are wrinkled; if they just hung up their clothes, they could save themselves a lot of money.)

4. Sweaters must not be placed on the hanger like blouses; fold them and hang them on pants hangers or place them in a drawer (or any flat surface) to prevent stretching.

5. Clothes should not be cruelly smushed together in the closet. Allow some breathable room in between clothes. If you must smush, then position them on the hanger to prevent wrinkling (if you have several dress shirts, for example, align all of the sleeves on both sides, and fold the arms against the front so the sleeves don't wrinkle; the arms should look crossed across the front).

6. If you sweat a lot, wear light undershirts or camisoles to absorb the sweat. Having a barrier between yourself and your clothes ensures that the garment will last longer and will not seem "dirty" to you.

7. Keep clothing in a dark place. The same is true for your handbags, which should always be kept in the cloth bags they came in. Direct sunlight wears away clothing, so don't leave anything out by the window.

Trench Warfare

As per a recent inquiry about the essentials for a West Side gal (and considering my post about Uptown/Downtown styles, I don't want to leave out the West Side), I've included the always classy, modern, and functional trench coat. The sleek silhouette, the cinched-in waist, and the dramatic extras (buttons, a large collar) instantly glamorize and reflect the quiet style of a typical West Side gal. Here are my top four choices, separated by price points:

INEXPENSIVE: Mike & Chris Clarence Trench, $330 at net-a-porter.com: The neutral gray shade compliments the bright yellows and oranges of the season, and the oversized buttons add interest to an inexpensive piece.


MID-RANGE: Adam Coated Trench coat, $495 at saks.com: The glossy finish and the dramatic embellishments on the sleeves make this a winner.


EXPENSIVE: Burberry Acaster Cropped Trench, $1,250 at net-a-porter.com: In Korea, "Burberry" means trench coat, and for good reason: Burberry is the "it" brand for trenches. This classic in a patent neutral will exude confidence and class.

INVESTMENT: Loro Piana 20k Storm System Trench, $1,995 at bergdorfgoodman.com: You pay for the waterproof and windproof technology as well as the gorgeous cherry red. A classic you will turn to time and time again.

Wednesday, April 2, 2008

The Caped Crusader

From Left: Miranda Bennett Silk Crepe de Chine Dress with Detachable Capelet, $428 at Albertine, NYC; Prada Spring 2008 Collection Runway Dress
Although I will always remain a devoted fan of the simple button-down cardigan, I find myself gravitating towards the whimsical and touching capelet, which demurely graces the tops of one's shoulders with quiet elegance. I have a number of spaghetti-strapped dresses that are too revealing for everyday, and a capelet resolves that dilemma; in addition, in the hot summer months to come, a cardigan may provide too much coverage. But more than the practical uses of the humble capelet, it also provides just the refreshing change I've been looking for without sacrificing functionality.

Tuesday, April 1, 2008

The 5th Floor

I apologize for the terrible quality of this image.

The Fifth Floor, of 5F as Bergdorf calls it, has been designated by department stores as the "contemporary" or lower-priced designer collections (an average dress runs from $350-$500, versus an average high-priced designer dress, from $1,500 to $3,000). For the last week, I have received relentless mailings from Barneys, Saks, and Bergdorf's, all parading the same basic goods from the same basic contemporary designers: 3.1 Philip Lim, Theory, Marc by Marc Jacobs, See by Chloe, etc. The appeal is obvious: one obtains relatively affordable designer clothes with the hot designer names, and celebrities have found themselves vacillating between the high high end and the medium high end in fashion to diversify their wardrobe. But beyond the brand name recognition, what does one really get?

While some contemporary designers offer true quality for the price--Philip Lim, Tracy Reese, and Rebecca Taylor come to mind--others offer nothing more than high-end basics that regurgitate trends at a remarkable speed and with zero creativity. Take, for example, the following two photos: the one on the left is a look from Dries Van Noten's Spring 2008 line, and the one on the right is a copycat look from See by Chloe, available at Saks for $445.


Other designers, like Theory, Vince, Splendid, and Juicy offer little more than Banana Republic, Zara, H&M, and Ann Taylor in both style and quality. I find myself increasingly bored with the poor merchandise on these expensive racks, and wonder why fashion fatigue has hit these 5th floor designers. The key to weathering the storm of ennui is to be patient and know that the placement of a designer on a particular floor does not justify the price tag; the design and craftsmanship are what does. I have been dazzled by both an inexpensive dress and an expensive one, and one needs to be critical of each and every possible piece with the exaction of a martinet.

On The Subway Platform

Lanvin Beige Satin Cone Heel, $995 at www.monamoore.com

Despite my extensive shoe collection, I do not own a pair of platforms. This doesn't mean that I haven't wanted one; every time I see a pair that is drool-worthy, I try them on, but I always feel clunky and circusy wearing them. Yesterday, I saw a fabulously-dressed woman on the subway wearing an impeccable trench with gold buttons, a dramatic gold-flecked scarf, and the most stunning deep mahogany platforms I've ever seen. Of course, I could not keep my eyes off those shoes. Instead of looking clunky, she looked tall, put-together, and elegant. With shoes, it's a matter of practice and understanding one's limit; and I am determined to incorporate a pair of platforms into my life--after I've walked around my apartment in them a few times.